Is Grand Seiko Top of the Seiko Pecking Order?
It must be. The word "Grand" is literally in the name.
The Precursor
A friend recently asked me about the hierarchy within Seiko and its various sister companies. It’s a topic I’ve touched on informally, but I’ve never laid it out explicitly in the newsletter - so here’s an easy breakdown for those interested:
Seiko < Grand Seiko < Credor
In the neo-vintage to modern era, Credors and Grand Seikos have a similar starting point in terms of quality and pricing, but the upper limits of Credor has, historically, blown Grand Seiko away. In general, there’s a significant amount of overlap, and the lines between them often blur to the point where this “order” becomes more of a guideline than a rule. That said, it provides a broad sense of how Seiko perceives its own brands.
I frequently see discussions online where people foolishly lament the inclusion of the “Seiko” name in Grand Seiko. Some argue that it “weakens” the brand’s prestige. Ironically, if you point these same individuals towards Credor - a brand even further up the hierarchy - they lose interest simply because they’ve “never heard of it”. Sometimes, it feels like a no-win situation!
Here’s an interesting aside about Credor: its logo is designed to resemble the Japanese kanji for mountain (山 or yama). This was chosen to align with the original French-inspired name, Crête d’Or, meaning “Crest (or Peak) of Gold”.
Credor “Mother of Pearl” GCBZ999 GMT
Produced in 2011 and limited to 150 pieces, this GMT Credor is full of surprises, both inside and out. A Mother of Pearl dial, with a floral pattern etched into the centre circle. And as eye-catching as the design is, perhaps the most intriguing aspect is how rarely Seiko has used Mother-of-Pearl as a dial choice.
Outside of a handful of women’s watches, Seiko has only ever produced one other MOP dial - the Credor GBBE972. That’s a bold claim, I know, and admittedly not one I’m willing to vehemently defend - after all, Seiko’s catalogue spans tens of thousands of models. However, after wracking my brain, consulting several Japanese watch collectors, and engaging in some good old-fashioned Googling, I’ve come up mostly empty-handed. This GCBZ999 Credor appears to feature one of the only Mother-of-Pearl dials in a male-sized Seiko watch, and it’s uniquely stunning.
The MOP sits recessed between the 24-hour GMT markers, while the 60-minute track has been lifted above. The resulting interplay of shadows across the dial only enhances the watch’s character. To further accentuate the shimmering quality of the MOP, Seiko coated the 60-minute track and rehaut in titanium nitride, which makes it iridesce under light.
Credor didn’t stop at creating a captivating dial - the movement is equally noteworthy. The 8L movement inside this watch is a true, or “Traveller,” GMT calibre and was crafted at Seiko’s renowned Shizukuishi Watch Studio. Isn’t Shizukuishi the studio that produces all of the mechanical Grand Seiko 9S movements? What a sensible question I just asked myself! Indeed it is. However, they also manufacture the high-end Credor and Galante movements, such as the 8L36 housed within this GCBZ999.
If you’re searching for something truly different, it’s hard to top a limited-edition Credor of just 150 pieces, featuring one of Seiko’s only MOP dials, powered by a Shizukuishi-built True GMT movement.
The GCBZ999 Credor is now available to buy on our website.
In great condition overall. Some minor marks can be seen on the case and bezel, but nothing you’ll notice easily. It’s on an aftermarket leather strap, and has no box or papers.
SCVE001 “Sunny-Side Up” Yellow Dot
I’ve sourced and sold 7 out of the 8 Dots. Only the SCVE012 eludes me. The Yellow, or “sunny-side up” Dot has always been very sought after. I’ve covered the not well-known history of the Dot Collection is detail before, so please click here if you’d like to read about them.
Just like everyone else, I love the Red “Rising Sun” variant just as much as everyone else, but the vibrancy of the SCVE001 makes it a standout piece from the collection for me.
The SCVE001 is available to buy on our website.
In very good condition. The case has a few hairlines and bump marks, but nothing that detracts the overall look of the watch.
Seiko SAGV007 “Big Date” Kinetic
I love big Big Dates and I cannot lie. Produced for a brief period in 2008 and exclusively sold in Japan, this has become the grail Big Date for most Seiko collectors. A quintessentially accidental “limited edition” from Seiko, as it only resurfaces for sale every year or so. Powered by the proprietary 7D46 hybrid "Kinetic" movement, it shares its origins with the development of Seiko’s Spring Drive technology. For a detailed dive into this movement, please click here.
The watch boasts incredible wrist presence without being overbearing. A Big Date Triple Perpetual Calendar housed in a solid titanium, cushion-shaped case with striking angular lines, it’s a design that feels distinctly un-Seiko by today’s standards. It’s a shame, as I’m certain this kind of piece would find a strong following in both the West and East.
Unfortunately, Seiko spent much of 2024 stuck in a rut of Diver reissues and Cocktail Presage iterations. Here’s hoping 2025 will bring us some genuinely exciting new designs!
The Seiko SAGV007 is now available to buy on our website.
In good condition overall. The case has the typical hairlines and swirls you expect from titanium. Easy to buff out if that’s your thing. The watch was just serviced by Seiko Japan, and had its kinetic capacitor replaced, so you’re good to go until ~2035!
Credor GCAR977 “Linea Lux” Collection
Part of the Linea Lux collection, which means Line of Light in Italian and Latin. The Credor GBAR997 features a uniquely shaped case and end links inspired by interconnecting circles symbolising your past, present, and future. Powered by a thermo-compensated HAQ movement with an impressive accuracy of ±10 seconds per year, it aligns with Credor’s modern philosophy of making every second count.
From a design standpoint, the GCAR997 carries a motif of ice water, reflected in its intensely blue dial. I want to emphasise just how strikingly blue this dial is. It may appear as though an oversaturated Instagram filter has been applied to the photos, but rest assured, this dial is blue blue. It’s not a choice for those seeking subtlety.
Credor’s ultimate goal with the Linea Lux collection was to create a piece that feels smart and easy to wear while remaining visually compelling as an everyday watch. The result is a daily driver with the shape of a dress watch, offering incredible comfort. Its lightweight HAQ movement, slim 7.1mm profile, sloping lugs, and narrow bracelet links ensure it conforms seamlessly to any wrist shape.
The Credor GCAR977 is now available to buy on our website.
In great condition overall. Minor signs of wear on the case and bezel, but nothing very noticeable.
Seiko “Laurel” LHAM602
The final LHAM Laurel, which has eluded me for over a year. I’ve previously done a full write-up about the LHAM series and their role as Seiko’s “Hidden Alpinists”, so please click here to read about them.
The LHAM602 on offer today is different to the 600 and 601 in that its Alpinist connection is even more obscure, due to the unexpected inclusion of the Roman Numerals - not something you’ll find on any other Alpinist-adjacent watch. That said, the numerals elevate the watch for me, cementing its place as my favourite of the three.
Another major difference between the 602 and its LHAM siblings is the textured dial. While it retains the same subtle shade of “laurel” green as the 600, the dial features a unique stucco texture. It’s equal parts unusual and intriguing, giving the face of the watch a wonderfully matte finish.
P.S. It’s the perfectly balanced “Watchmaker’s Four” we looked at a few weeks ago!
The LHAM602 is available to buy on our website.
In great condition overall. The only mark of any significance is a tiny scratch on the crystal above the 8 o’clock indices. This isn’t something you’ll notice on the wrist, and I suspect most people wouldn’t have ever noticed even on close inspection. It’s visible in the primary photo above (as it intersects the III of the VIII).
Seiko “Age of Discovery” 7T59-7A30 1/100th Chronograph
The world's first ever 1/100th of a second Quartz Chronograph movement. Developed by Seiko for the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, the 7T59 movement brought an extra level of precision with its 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph fuctionality. I’ve covered this exact “Age of Discovery” Chronograph before in detail, so please click here if you’d like to read about it.
tl;dr? I made a video that shows the 1/100th hand in action. Admittedly the hand is an imperceptible blur, but it’s worth watching anyway.
The 7T59-7A30 is available to buy on our website.
In great condition. Given the age and condition, it presumably hasn’t been worn or has been worn sparingly. The only marks of any significance can be seen on the caseback.
Don’t forget to follow my Instagram to see all of the watches above in full cinematic glory later this week.
The Grand Seiko Genbi Valley was pretty grand