How To Work Your Way up Seiko’s Corporate Ladder

Step 1. Create a wildly popular watch

The Precursor

I’m featuring a SCVE Dot this week, so I thought I’d take a look at the interesting way Seiko utilises its vertical integration to take bigger design risks. I also manage to squeeze in some of Seiko’s 2024 concept watches, which are amazing (-ly disappointing that they’re not for sale). There are also a couple of old favourites available this week, and I even discuss a non-Japanese watch company! Admittedly it’s a British company, which is where I’m originally from, so it isn’t much of a stretch for me.

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Seiko “Silver Dot” SCVE011

One of Seiko’s most sought-after modern collections. The Dot series has captured the hearts of both Western and Japanese collectors. Thanks to their extraordinary rarity, these pieces have outperformed nearly every other watch on the planet in terms of ROI since their release in 2015. The Red Dot (SCVE003), initially sold by Seiko for $250, now rarely trades for less than $2,000 - a price jump that would even make Rolex pandemic-era gains blush.

What may be less familiar, however, are the Metallic Dots, four lesser-known models from this colourful collection. Rather than sticking to a clean white dial with a splash of colour, these Metallic Dots embrace monochromatic themes. Today’s feature, the “platinum blue” SCVE011, is entirely true to its hue - not only the dial and dot but the second hand and leather strap also carry shades of blue. Its companions, the SCVE008, SCVE012, and SCVE009, follow suit with Gold, Bronze, and Onyx themes, respectively.

So why are these watches so rare? Seiko’s high degree of vertical integration allows the company full control over every aspect of production, from design and manufacturing to assembly, marketing, and even logistics. This gives Seiko a unique ability to run very small production batches without the cost concerns that often challenge less vertically integrated brands.

Beyond their rarity and value, the Dots have a distinct charm that feels experimental, possibly hinting at their origin. I’ve sometimes wondered if unique collections like these are a result of junior designers being given the opportunity to create low-stakes, small-batch releases for the Japanese Domestic Market. With Seiko’s strong culture of internal promotion, allowing designers to step above their paygrade for a project or two could be an ideal way to spot new talent.

Marketing for the SCVE Dot series was minimal. In fact, the image above is the only known “advert” for these watches, which were marketed exclusively in Japan for a single year in 2015. I had no hard evidence for my theory that these limited JDM releases might be a proving ground for Seiko’s junior designers, until recently…

Between 2002 and 2009, Seiko ran an internal design competition called the Seiko Power Design Project. This annual contest allowed junior designers to pitch a watch idea based on that year’s theme, with the possibility of seeing their entry turned into a real watch. In 2008, the theme was creating watches inspired by Tokyo districts, and one shortlisted entry, the Shinagawa model, immediately caught my eye.

It’s unmistakably a Dot watch, isn’t it? Though the dot isn’t in quite the same position, the baton hands and indices, combined with overall case shape and crown give the connection away. While the Shinagawa didn’t win, which might explain why it took seven years to become a real model, it’s satisfying to see the SCVE line eventually come to life. The SCVE007 was the first grail watch I personally tracked down in Japan, making this series a sentimental favourite of mine.

For anyone curious, the winner of the 2008 competition was Otemachi (Number 3), and you can view all entries by clicking here.

Though Seiko closed the Power Design Project in 2009, it delighted fans by reviving the competition in 2022. The 2024 theme, “Watches 99% of People Don’t Need,” yielded some truly inventive concepts.

Warning: be prepared to immediately feel like you absolutely needs all of these watches.

Sunny Men Sundial. Insane, obviously, but everyone loves it. This design has an internal spirit level and a rotating raised disc, allowing users to adjust for their longitude. If used correctly, it can track the sun with an accuracy of 0.58 seconds per year. Eat your heart out 9F calibre.

Panda Lovers Watch. It barely needs an explanation does it? It’s a “Pandagraph” with panda ears for the chronopushers. I’m not going to attempt to gild this lily, so I’ll just leave you with the pictures.

Ambidextrous Watch. Although the name isn’t the most inventive, it’s my top pick for creative design in 2024. The dial’s texture is split-coated, so it changes colour when you switch wrists. To match this reversible look, the case is half stainless steel and half black PVD. But it doesn’t end there - it’s six handed. Did you spot it? The “two” faces have their own inversed hand sets, so there’s no need to adjust the time when you flip the watch upside down when changing wrists.

While I’m thrilled to see each year’s Seiko Power Design Project entries, it’s slightly disappointing that the revamped competition seems to be more about high-concept pieces than actual production models. To be clear, Seiko has physically made these watches, as they were all displayed at the Seiko Seed Museum in Tokyo earlier this year - but I’m confident they’ll never be sold.

It’s a situation that reminds me of the 2023 Studio Underd0g April Fools’ Pizza Party watch - a playful design that fans begged to see made. Despite starting its life as a joke, Studio Underd0g decided to make it a reality - but with a twist. You can’t buy the Pizza Party online or in their shop, instead, the pizzas are “hand-delivered” by their founders to customers they meet at watch events in person. Now that’s a thematic follow-through!

While I can’t speak to Studio Underd0g’s internal decision-making, there must have been a great deal of hesitation around manufacturing a “joke” design based solely on fan demand. Likewise, even if Seiko did release the sundial concept (which Seiko fans have loved since its reveal), would people actually spend $1,000 or more on it? Regardless, here’s hoping that Seiko finds the same courage as Studio Underd0g and brings some of these quirky designs to life.

I forgot this started as a SCVE011 discussion. Sorry!

The SCVE011 is now available to buy on our website.

In near-perfect condition, with box and papers.

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Otsuka Lotec No. 6

Unique vision meets masterful execution. It’s a watch I’ve discussed before, so click here to read the full write-up. I’ve taken this Lotec No. 6 on consignment, but I physically have it in my possession and it will be packaged, insured and sent by me. There’s some flexibility in the price, as the owner is quite motivated by Japan’s upcoming tax season, so get send me an email if you’d like to discuss it. As with all my watch sales, there’s a 5% discount for those using Wise.com to send the payment (as Wise’s international transaction costs are negligible compared).

Earlier this week, Jiro Katayama, creator of the Lotec, was honoured as a "Contemporary Master Craftsman" by the Japanese Government - the title has been given to no more than 4,000 craftsmen since its inception in the 1960s. With fewer than 150 individuals recognised this year, it’s a truly prestigious accolade. Hopefully, recipients still receive a physical insignia to display in their workshops, as I’m sure Katayama would proudly showcase his.

He now joins an elite group of master craftsmen, including Hajime Asaoka, founder of Kurono Tokyo, who was granted the same honour in 2022. It’s well-deserved recognition for a craftsman whose contributions continue to shape Japanese watchmaking.

The Otsuka Lotec No. 6 is now available to buy on our website.

In unworn condition. Full box and papers.

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Seiko Laurel LJAK600

Back by popular demand. Another watch I featured very recently, but it has a very interesting history, so click here to read the full write-up.

The LJAK600 is now available to buy on our website.

In great condition in general, but the solid 18k gold bezel has some marks on it. They’re fully visible in the various pictures. If it was your style, they could easily be buffed out. You wouldn’t even need to see a watch specialist - a jeweller could restore the gold bezel back to perfection.

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Don’t forget to follow my Instagram to see all of the watches above in full cinematic glory later this week.