What does Grand Seiko smell like?
I promise you this isn't clickbait. I actually attempt to answer the question.
The Precursor
The history of the Seiko Alpinists is well-known by most collectors, but today I hope to shed some light on a lesser known, and technically unofficial, part of the line up. I'll also be exploring Seiko’s version of the Eco-Drive, along with a classic vintage Seiko that many of you are already familiar with - but hopefully still love.
And, of course, I’ve included a fun piece of Grand Seiko merchandise at the end of the newsletter for your enjoyment. Swiss brands might offer caps, wallets, and keychains, but how boring is that? Grand Seiko would never.
Seiko Laurel LHAM601 / 4S15-0020
A watch released as a vintage-inspired throwback, that has now become a vintage piece in its own right. Released in 1995, this curiously coloured, laurel-green LHAM601 was a dressed up version of the 1959 Laurel Alpinist - the first ever Alpinist (named after the Japanese Alps, not the ones in Europe). But before we dive deeper, it’s worth introducing the other Laurel I’ll be highlighting today…
Seiko Laurel LHAM600 / 4S15-0020
Same-same, but different. Not just separated by colour, but also by indices, markers, hand shape, and the case finishing - this is the LHAM600. The LHAM’s connection to the 1959 Laurel Alpinist becomes clearer when you compare it to the 600, as both have similarly shaped indices on a dark dial, simple case design, and delicate lugs. Despite its gentler look when viewed through a modern lens, all Seiko Alpinists were built to be rugged.
In 1956, Chiharu Igaya made history by winning silver in the Olympic Alpine Skiing event - Japan’s first-ever Winter Olympic medal. This achievement sparked a boom in skiing and winter sports across Japan, prompting Seiko to release a rugged winter sports watch: the Laurel Alpinist. With strong lume, a high-contrast dial, and mountain-shaped indices, it quickly became popular among enthusiasts. However, despite its appeal, it wasn’t a major commercial success, and after just two iterations, it was discontinued. Fast forward 30 years, and Shigeo Sakai was given the nod.
Spoiler alert: he didn’t disappoint.
Eagle-eyed readers may have spotted that Shigeo Sakai’s legendary SCVF Alpinists share the same 4S15 “Hi-Beat” movement with the Laurel LAHMs, and they were all released in the same year. Furthermore, the darker-coloured Laurel uses the same Mountain-inspired indices as the Black SCVF005, and the lighter-coloured Laurel opts for Arabic numbers just like the SCVF007. And finally, both the LHAMs and the SVCFs all share the same non-applied, printed accent around their date windows. Obviously none of this is a coincidence - it’s a design theme Seiko has carried forward in every generation of Alpinist since.
The 2010 generation of Alpinists continues the tradition, with the black SARB015 featuring the familiar mountain indices and the cream-coloured SARB013 showcasing Arabic numerals. And if you’re not tired of comparing Alpinists yet, let’s look at the 2020 generation:
The SBP119 and SBP117 certainly don’t break the mould.
So, what’s my point? Seiko bought a sign from Etsy that reads “Be True To Yourself” and hung it in their design studio? Maybe. But it’s more that the “OG” status of the SCVF Alpinists should be shared with the 1995 Laurels LHAMs, especially when you considered the 1959 Laurel was the first-ever Alpinist. And even if you’re not willing to see the LHAM as one of Founding Fathers of the modern Alpinist, you at least have to at concede that it’s part of the original Alpinist line-up.
Both LAHMs have the “if you know, you know” appeal for Alpinist enthusiasts, but I hope they eventually receive the widespread recognition they deserve.
Their cleaner layout gives them a dressier appearance while still embodying the essence of an Alpinist. Arguably, they make for a sharper-looking everyday watch, especially in an office environment, than any of the previously mentioned Alpinists!
The LHAM600 is available to buy on the website now.
The Green LHAM601 is available to buy on the website now.
The LHAM600 (Blue) is in great condition and comes with the original box and manual.
The LHAM601 (Laurel Green) is in very good condition, but there are some minor marks on the bezel.
Seiko Brightz SAGZ019 / 7B22-0AP0
About as convenient as a watch gets. Solar powered and radio-controlled, it’s truly a set-it-and-forget-it timepiece. Unlike many radio-controlled watches that sacrifice design for functionality, the SAGZ019 has greedily opted for both. The cushion case will be instantly recognisable to anyone familiar with Seiko’s iconic Brightz collection from the early 2000s. The logo, indices, and dial text are layered on top of a transparent surface that sits above the grey-blue, translucent dial, creating a shadow effect reminiscent of Citizen’s Eco-Drive models.
These watches weren’t cheap upon release, costing around $900 in 2005 (not adjusted for inflation), but the quality is evident in the finishing. The titanium case is both brushed and polished, and the dial features a mix of applied Arabic numerals and beautifully polished baton markers, showcasing Seiko’s attention to detail.
The SAGZ019 can connect to any Atomic Radio Tower within a 1,000km radius, so you should have coverage in most major cities worldwide. If needed, Atomic Radio Towers can also be spoofed using your phone, and, of course, you can manually set the time as well. The pusher above the crown allows you to flick through time zones at the touch of a button.
In direct sunlight, the battery goes from empty to fully charged in eight hours. While this might seem like a long time, it’s worth noting that the battery can store up to six months of power from those eight hours. In fact, just three minutes of sunlight is enough to power the watch for 24 hours. If the watch doesn’t receive sunlight for 72 hours, it will enter a hibernation mode where the second hand stops ticking. Exposing it to sunlight will immediately bring everything back to life, with the hands returning to the correct time automatically.
The SAGZ019 is available to buy on the website now.
It is in good condition, but there are cosmetic scratches on the bezel and lugs. The price has been reduced to reflect the condition.
21-3210 White Gold Emperor “Kotobuki”
Emperor Hirohito’s Wedding Anniversary Watch. Made in 1973 to celebrate the Emperor of Japan’s upcoming 50th Anniversary, the watch is often simply referred to as 寿 in Japan, which means "Kotobuki" or Congratulations/Long life.
Interestingly, "Kotobuki" also refers to a mythical Japanese creature that combines all the animals of the Chinese zodiac. The dial is adorned with two Kotobuki figures, symbolising congratulations and wishing the Emperor a long life.
Whenever I sell an Emperor watch, I get requests to see what it looks like on my wrist. It might be due to the unusual shape of the watch, or perhaps some of you are just really into wrists, but either way, I’ve pre-empted the request this time. The rectangular case and textured dial are crafted from 18k white gold, and the raised Kotobuki figures on the dial give the watch a distinct visual presence, even from a distance. It’s a truly unique piece in any collection.
The 21-3210 Emperor Watch is available to buy on the website now.
It is in great condition, despite its age. Any marks are incredibly mild. All of the White Gold finish is untarnished.
Just for fun: Grand Seiko Aroma Stone and Fragrance
Ever wanted to smell like Grand Seiko? Of course you have - you’re only human. Look, I’m not even sure what to say here. When I first thought about including the Aroma Stone, I was all “Haha, this will be funny. People will enjoy seeing this”. But now that I actually have to find words to describe this thing, it’s not as funny anymore.
It’s pretty self-explanatory - you put a drop or two of the scent on the ceramic stone, and it naturally diffuses into the air. Can you use other scented oils on the ceramic stone? Yes of course, but I’d immediately remove you from the newsletter if I ever got word of that sort of nonsense happening. It’s a Grand Seiko Ceramic Aroma Stone™ and I won’t allow it to be disrespected with aftermarket parts.
Now, the question on everyone’s lips is surely, “What does Grand Seiko smell like?” To my amateur nose, it has a delicate, soapy, orange scent to it - notes of citrus without the sharpness. Clean and bright. Being slightly less pretentious, it reminds me of a freshly washed shirt, in a good way(?). All I know for sure is that I would have paid decent money to be part of the meeting where someone from middle management had to explain to the product design team that they needed to “capture the fragrance of Grand Seiko.”
Not something I plan to sell, but I’ll include it with a Grand Seiko sale as a fun bonus!
Don’t forget to follow my Instagram to see all of the watches above in full cinematic glory later this week.