This Might Just Be the Thinnest Spring Drive on the Market
At only 9.1mm, it's even thinner than a Credor Eichi II
The Precursor
I’ve got a certifiable classic from 1953 and a modern masterpiece from 2018. That’s a remarkable temporal gap of 65 years - I doubt I’ll ever feature such a wide range in the newsletter again. My previous best was a pathetic 43 years, when I showcased an Emperor’s Kotobuki (1973) alongside a SARW041 (2016).
Interestingly, I picked up a Pre-War (1923) enamel-dial “Seikosha” last week. While it’s been re-cased, the replacement case was so unusual I couldn’t resist snapping it up. I hadn’t planned on featuring it in any newsletters, but that 1923 is begging me to shatter some personal bests.
Credor GCLH997 “24/7” Manual Spring Drive
One of the remaining Credors from the legendary “Node” collection that I haven’t yet covered. The GCLH997 is certainly deserving of today’s spotlight. I won’t delve into the general Credor Node series today, as I’ve covered it before - if you missed it please click here.
As someone who traditionally gravitates toward manual-wind watches, I’m always excited to see manual-wind Spring Drives, and the GCLH997 is no exception. The tactile ritual of winding a watch is hard to explain to those who haven’t experienced it - it’s almost meditative. Rolling the crown between my fingers in the early morning, as I wait for my espresso machine to warm up, becomes a cherished part of my daily routine. With the 7R88 Spring Drive, removing the automatic rotor not only enhances the manual-winding experience but also ensures that the beauty of the movement isn’t obscured.
The absence of the rotor also trims down the case thickness, giving this Spring Drive a more traditionally dressy profile. At just 9mm thick, it’s slimmer than any Grand Seiko Spring Drive on the market by an entire millimetre. You’re welcome to fight me in the comments if I’m wrong, but I’m fairly confident the thinnest Spring Drive GS is 10.2mm - models like the SBGY Omiwatari.
Its slim dimensions and brushed oyster-style bracelet make it an absolute delight to wear. Winding the crown and watching the power reserve indicator (PRI) rise is deeply satisfying. The heat-blued second hand comes to life, and as it glides around the ivory dial, its underside creates a perfectly mirrored reflection on the oversized Zaratsu-polished 2, 4, and 7 markers - something you’ll never tire of.
The complications are seamlessly integrated into the design. The dial features two layers of concentric circles, with the PRI forming a smaller sub-circle that mirrors the layered design. Rather than appearing as a complication related afterthought, the PRI enhances the watch's look, complementing the overall layout. The 24/7 hour markers flanking the six o’clock date window create a sense of cohesion, ensuring the date window fits harmoniously on the dial.
The Credor GCLH997 is available to buy on our website.
In great condition. No noticeable marks of any significance, apart from the metal edge of the exhibition caseback which has a few hairlines and marks on it.
Seiko “Autodator” Ref. 1748
By far the oldest Seiko I’ll ever sell. The Seiko Autodator was produced in 1953 and represents one of Seiko’s early examples with date functionality. It took only a year for Seiko to fall in line with Swiss conventions, releasing the Self Dator in 1954 with a classic 3 o’clock date window. But for one glorious year, Seiko found inspiration in the JLC Memovox, and got creative with a unique date wheel design that has always caught my eye.
The condition of a 72-year-old watch like this should be the main focus of any discussion, and I’m pleased to say this example is impeccably original and has just been fully serviced by a vintage specialist in Japan. The date pusher near the crown works perfectly for quick setting, and the movement boasts an impressively strong amplitude of 288°. The hands, dial, lume, crown, and caseback are all original and unaltered. While the leather strap isn’t original, the strap’s buckle remarkably is!
There is, however, one element I unashamedly had restored: the case. Before you grab your pitchforks, it’s not as bad as it sounds - let me explain. The original case is solid nickel with chrome plating, a material combination that struggles to survive over seven decades, even in the best conditions. When chrome plating begins to deteriorate, it becomes oddly sharp, creating tiny cheese grater-like patches that catch your skin.
Please find an example below:
Fortunately, chrome has a unique advantage - it can be expertly removed without affecting the nickel underneath, allowing for a fresh layer of chrome plating to be applied. This ensures the case retains its original shape while regaining its factory-fresh appearance. Thanks to this careful restoration, the case now looks just as it did when it left the Seiko factory in 1953.
Being a product of the 1950s, this watch is smaller than what modern tastes typically demand, measuring 30mm wide without the crown. However, its historical significance and unique design more than make up for its compact size.
The Seiko Autodator is available to buy on our website.
In great condition considering the age. Serviced and re-chromed by specialists in Japan. The dial, lume, hands, crown and caseback are all untouched but look fantastic. Everything is in working order. This is one of the cleanest Autodator Ref. 1748 you’re ever likely to see.
Seiko SARB013 “Ivory Alpinist”
The rarely seen sibling of the more famous SARB017, the SARB013 is an intriguing alternative. I enjoy the SARB017 - it’s no SCVF009 but I understand its popularity. It’s green a Alpinist that successfully captures the SCVF spirit, while modernising the design - it was always going to be a hit, and the 12+ year production run speaks volumes about its enduring appeal.
In contrast, the SARB013 was only produced for less than two years. What crime it committed to be excluded from the SARB017’s extended production is anyone’s guess. Seiko’s puzzling decision has earned the SARB013 the nickname “Unicorn Alpinist” among collectors, thanks to its incredible rarity and colour.
Ivory is a versatile colour, but the SARB013’s appeal goes beyond that. The Cathedral hands, iconic to the Alpinist series, are sometimes criticised for being too visually dominant. While I don’t share this view, it’s a sentiment often expressed within the Seiko community. However, the SARB013 addresses this critique with its dial-matched lume, softening the impact of the Cathedral hands and creating an almost skeletonised aesthetic. Among the many Alpinists produced, the SARB013 stands out as the most balanced and refined of them all.
The SARB013 is available to buy on our website.
In very good condition overall. A handful of marks can be seen on the case, but nothing particularly unpleasant or distracting.
Seiko “Laurel” LJAL600
The more traditionally shaped version of the LJAK600 Laurel I’ve showcased before. Despite its vintage appearance, this piece is actually neo-vintage, having been released in the mid-’90s. Its elegant blued Breguet-style hands, ripple-wave dial, Arabic numerals, solid 925 silver case, and 18kt gold bezel make it look like it hails from the 1950s or ’60s. The Swiss x Japanese history of this Laurel series is fascinating, so I highly recommend clicking here to read my original write-up if you missed it the first time.
The looks of a sixty year old watch, but powered by one of Seiko’s most famously reliable modern, hi-beat, movements - the 4S Calibre. The perfect package!
The LJAL600 is available to buy on our website.
In great condition. No noticeable marks of significance anywhere. The silver and gold are free from patina which probably means they were cleaned up before the watch got to me. Removing patina isn’t a particularly reductive process, unlike polishing scratches out of stainless steel, so the original case shape remains beautifully intact.
Seiko SARY007
Seiko loves to drop random, unmarketed, dressy-looking watches onto the JDM. They often do it in incredibly small numbers without any fanfare, making them pseudo-limited edition and very hard to track down. The SARY007 is a great example of that.
It features a guilloché-textured inner circle with tight concentric circles around the outer dial. But the indices on this watch deserve all of the credit. They do a wonderful imitation of zaratsu polishing, and change between black matte and fully illuminated as the light catches them. For the price point, you have to assume they aren’t zaratsu polished, but honestly, with Seiko you never know - the zaratsuesque indices could easily be the result of letting junior employees try advanced finishing techniques!
The SARY007 is available to buy on our website.
In very good condition overall. Just serviced by Seiko Japan. A few bumps and marks on the bezel and case, but nothing overly unpleasant. The most noticeable marks can be seen next to the crown on the side of the case.
Seiko “Three Moons” SPB085 in Urushi Byakudan-nuri
Traditional Japanese craftsmanship stacked on top of traditional Japanese craftsmanship. Released in a limited run of 2,000 pieces in December 2018, the SPB085 is a wonderful homage to Japan. I’ve deservedly covered the “Hidden Moon” before in full detail before, so please click here if you’d like to read about it.
I don’t think a watch over $1000 can be considered “cheap”, but it’s definitely a great value proposition nonetheless. You aren’t going to find this level of craftsmanship and finishing anywhere near this price point elsewhere.
The SPB085 is available to buy on our website.
Brand-new-in-box condition. Full box, papers, and tags.
Don’t forget to follow my Instagram to see all of the watches above in full cinematic glory later this week.