Spring Drives Don’t Have To Be Elegant
But they're always satisfying to watch
The Precursor
As much as I love the modern Spring Drive aesthetics, with its beautifully crafted and uniquely coloured dials, there’s something especially captivating about seeing that smooth sweep on a watch with a less conventional look. It adds a touch of “sleeper build” charm, giving the watch an understated edge.
And, at the end of the newsletter, I’ve included a personal favourite: a watch with a backstory!
Seiko “Landmaster” SBDB005 Spring Drive / 5R66-0AY0
A rough and ready GMT Spring Drive. Released in 2012, the Landmaster was built for adventure. The SBDB005 is housed in a solid titanium case, enhanced with Diashield coating for improved scratch resistance. Notice the crown at the 12 o’clock position - strategically placed to protect it from impact as you take on the world. For seasoned Seiko fans, the Landmaster’s resemblance to a notable 2010 model may stand out: the Space Walk.
Limited to just 100 pieces and originally priced at $28,000, the SPS005 is, visually speaking, the “Spacemaster” brother of the Landmaster. Both share the rarely-seen mono-bullhead (Dear watch community: unicornhead, surely?) crown, as well as identical hands, indices, and a distinctive fuel gauge-style power reserve indicator. Exceptionally rare, the Space Walk was the sixth watch to ever go outside during a space mission. I recently managed to find one for The Grand Seiko Guy, who bought it within minutes of seeing my message. There’s no better indication of a watch’s grail status than watching someone immediately spend tens of thousands of dollars without giving it a second thought.
Back to the SBDB005. Powering this Landmaster is the 5R66 Spring Drive, the undecorated version of Seiko's 9R66 Spring Drive - because why go to the trouble of decorating a movement when you’re going to encase it in solid titanium? Accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month, and with a 70 power reserve, this movement was built for performance. It’s a “True” or “Traveller” GMT, and for the sake of night-time clarity, the GMT hand glows blue instead of the lumibrite-green seen on the rest of the dial and hands.
On the caseback, there’s a space reserved for engraving your personal and medical details, in case anyone finds you injured while you’re bravely mastering the land (commuting to the office for your daily 9-5). While Seiko previously offered free laser engraving for the SBDB005, as the model has now been discontinued, owners will need to rely on third-party engraving services.
The watch is available to buy on our website now.
The watch is in excellent condition, and it comes with the original box and papers. While there are a few minor marks on the bezel, the photos display the watch’s condition clearly.
Seiko SARD003, SARD006 & SARD007 Double Retrograde
Is this the horological version of nature versus nurture? Three watches, all sharing Seiko's 6R24 “Hi-Beat” calibre DNA, but each with its own distinct character. Each features Seiko’s double retrograde day and date complication and a power reserve indicator—an effortlessly cool combination. As their owner, and therefore Dad(?), I can’t pick a favourite. Instead, please allow me to showcase each one so you can pick a favourite.
First, there’s the SARD003, the most assertive-looking and rarest of the three. As the numbering system suggests, it was the joint earliest release (along with the SARD001, not featured here today) in the SARD collection in 2009. All three watches have multi-dimensional dials as a common thread that binds them. Not only does the SARD001 have recessed subdials but it also has incredibly tall mirror-polished hour markers, inspired by the tail feathers of an arrow. The metal trim running along the edge of subdials is coated with titanium nitride, creating an iridescent effect under the light.
Next, we have the SARD007. Released in 2015, it pays homage to Japanese design pioneer Riki Watanabe, who passed away in 2013. With a snow-white enamel dial and gently pressed subdials, this model channels Watanabe’s aesthetic, and was developed in collaboration with his design house. The late Riki Watanabe’s “Riki Clocks,” which won Japan’s 2004 Good Design Award, have earned a near-legendary following among Japanese interior design aficionados. Since its discontinuation, the SARD007 has become highly sought-after in Japan, with its value soaring as a result.
Finally, the SARD006, released in 2014, offers a blend of traits from the previous two models. This version features a white dial with deep-set subdials that cast long shadows, while rose-gold accents on the hands, markers, and case add a refined touch, setting it apart from the monochrome SARD007.
Each watch has its own aesthetic, with the dressier SARD006 and SARD007 models on leather straps, while the bolder SARD003 comes on a stainless steel bracelet. Three very distinct styles to consider.
All three are available to buy on our website now:
The SARD007 shows minor hairlines and marks and is in very good condition overall. The SARD003 and SARD006 have some bezel marks and dings but remain in good condition. No box or papers.
Seiko “Age of Discovery” 7T59-7A30
The world's first ever 1/100th of a second Quartz Chronograph movement. Developed by Seiko for the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, the 7T59 movement brought an extra level of precision with its 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph fuctionality. While Olympic editions of the 7T59 exist, there are also several non-Olympic versions available. My personal favourite? The “Age of Discovery” variant, featured above.
The Age of Discovery variant commemorates the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’s historic 1492 Atlantic crossing. The Santa Maria, Columbus’ iconic ship, is engraved into the caseback, and as a final nod to Columbus, the day wheel can be changed from English to Spanish.
With its impossibly fast chronograph hand, futilely coloured red for maximum visibility, the 1/100th-of-a-second sweep is too fast for the eye to follow, creating a visual effect somewhere between a blur and a disappearing act. Keep an eye out for the full video demonstration I’ll be posting on Instagram later this week.
The watch is available to buy on our website now.
In New Old Stock (NOS) condition. Never worn. Any marks are tiny and hard to notice. No box or papers.
Seiko 7T36-7A20 Pocket Watch
The best 40th birthday present you could give someone. I’ll explain why in just a moment. It doesn’t take long to realise this golden pocket watch has a lot going on. I won’t bore you with the details, but it packs a technical punch as it features:
Small seconds
Moonphase
Chronograph
Circular Date
Alarm
For me, though, the real draw is the incredibly unique caseback engraving.
On the surface is reads:
40 Years Old in 1997
A Flying Dragon Rides the Cloud
[A Japanese person’s full name]
Under the surface, the caseback contains my favourite type of Japanese: nuanced Japanese. Yay! I’ll give it a go though.
According to Confucius, adults don’t find their truest path in life until they reach 40. The first two symbols, 不惑 (fuwaku), literally mean “without confusion”, but, thanks to the Confucian teachings, it has come to mean “40 years old” in Japan.
The second sentence, 飛竜乘雲 (hiryū jōun) literally means “flying dragon riding the clouds”, but in Japan it is idiom used to convey the idea of limitless achievement - the moment a person finally realises and harnesses their talents to achieve great things.
The Japanese name at the bottom is uncommon, and given that we know his birth year is 1957, it was easy to look him up. I’m pleased to report that just two years after receiving this watch, in 1999, he became a company director for the first time, and his career has continued on that trajectory ever since! I’m not saying this thoughtful birthday gift manifested his destiny... but you can’t prove it didn’t.
The watch is available to buy on our website now.
It is great condition. No box or papers, but it does have a great story.
Don’t forget to follow my Instagram to see all of the watches above in full cinematic glory.