Another Weird Japanese Watch You've Never Heard of Before
Great if you like that sort of thing!
The Precursor
If you loved reading about Citizen’s Concept Watch last week, then oh boy, do I have some great news for you today!
If you hated it, then the only silver lining is there aren’t any other interesting Citizen Concepts to cover. Once you’ve powered through (or scrolled past) the “Dome” watch below, you’re done. No more Citizen Concepts, I promise.
… unless they do something really cool in 2025.
Citizen Eco-Drive “Dome” BY0030-04E
A titanium and pearl case. Yes, pearl. Following last week’s ceramic concept, it only feels right to feature another bold experiment from Citizen’s Concept Watches collection. The BY0030-04E debuted at Baselworld in 2009, one year before the ceramic “Eyes” model, and like any good concept watch, it pushed boundaries.
At first glance, I’m reminded of the fictional Bulgari watch worn by Tom Cruise in Minority Report. It’s beautifully futuristic, but the case materials standout as the most ambitious part of the BY0030-04E. The case features a titanium core coated in five layers of pearl. How? I have no idea. Citizen was tight-lipped about the process and has seemingly never attempted it again. Why? Allegedly for its scratch resistance - but it feels obvious they did it for the flex.
The pearlescent effect is striking. Even from a distance, tiny iridescent specks flicker as light moves across the case. My best guess is that the coating is a ceramic blend infused with millions of microscopic pearl fragments. Inspection under macro lens supports this theory, but Citizen has never confirmed anything beyond calling it “Pearl Coating”. Whatever the exact composition, the result is, at the very least, unique.
As with the “Eyes” concept, Citizen produced just 250 “Domes” in white and 250 in black. While the white model boasts the pearl coating, the black version opts for a DLC finish, giving it a carbon-fibre-like appearance. The Pearl version retailed for ¥262,500 ($2900 at the time).
It’s probably time we talk about what it does.
I don’t want to bore you with endless paragraphs about all the weird and wonderful things it can do, so I’ll try to keep this brief.
It’s an Eco-Drive, and can hold a four year charge from full power
Radio-controlled atomic timekeeping, ensuring absolute accuracy
Citizen’s Perfex System, which automatically detects and corrects hand misalignment caused by shock or magnetism
GMT City Selector, allowing instant time zone changes via the crown (with automatic daylight savings adjustments)
Leap-year perpetual calendar, requiring no manual date adjustments
And finally, it’s an alarm, 1/5th-second chronograph, 24-hour subdial, and power reserve indicator
As individual elements, none of the above will necessarily blow you away, but together, they form something remarkable - especially when it looks like something from 2054.
The floating chapter ring holds most of the text and indices, allowing them to cast shadows onto the layer beneath. And the finishing is a masterclass in contrast, with chamfered edges, concentric etchings, and mirror-polished surfaces all working together in perfect harmony.
The Citizen “Dome” BY0030-04E is available to buy on our website.
In great, seemingly unworn, condition. Full box and papers.
Credor “24/7” Mother of Pearl GCAT989
More pearl, but the “Mother of” variety this time. The GCAT989 is a glossy black dress watch from Credor that adds a subtle yet striking iridescent touch to an otherwise classic design. Having featured several of these ultra-thin, high-accuracy Credors, I continue to be impressed by the sheer variety on offer. Whether you prefer Spring Drive (manual or automatic) or HAQ, Credor ensures there’s a version to suit your taste - available in a range of colours, textures, and materials.
Released in 2008 with a retail price of ¥325,000 (~$3,250 at the time), the GCAT989 is perfectly dressy at just 5.4mm thick and 36.0mm wide. The Mother of Pearl markers inject a touch of Credor’s signature playfulness, catching the light in a way that strikingly contrasts with the deep black dial.
Powered by a thermo-compensated HAQ movement with an impressive accuracy of ±10 seconds per year, it aligns with Credor’s modern philosophy of making every second count. Understated, precise, and effortlessly elegant, the GCAT989 is yet another reminder of why Credor remains one of Japan’s best-kept secrets horological secrets.
The Credor GCAT989 is available to buy on our website.
In great condition overall. No marks of any major significance, other than the caseback. On the original bracelet, which can fit up to a 7.0 inch wrist. No box or papers.
Citizen Campanola BU0020-71E Eco-Drive
You can’t handle seeing anything else pearl related? Nonsense. This wasn’t even intentional - only as I started writing this newsletter did I realise the bizarre theme! Much like the golden Tenmanboshi, this watch is part of Campanola’s Heaven Filled with Stars collection. However, instead of gold leaf, the stars scattered across its urushi lacquer subdial are crafted from crushed Mother of Pearl. It’s an intriguing design choice, made even more punchy by the watch’s deep, blacked-out aesthetic.
The BU0020-71E is part of Campanola’s current collection, meaning you can see it in its officially presented glory by clicking here. Available to buy new for ¥363,000 yen (almost $2,500), these celestial offerings from Citizen continue to be great value propositions on the secondary market for anyone brave enough to try a slightly unusual design.
One of the subtle yet significant changes between past and present Eco-Drive Campanolas is the moon phase indicator. The moon now features eight layers of paint, giving its craters a rich, three-dimensional depth. Someone recently asked me why details like this, typically only noticeable through a macro lens, matter - and that’s a fair question, but one that has a simple answer.
Small details show the watchmaker’s pride in their work and designs. Whether it’s decorating a movement hidden behind a solid caseback or meticulously layering a moon phase for heightened realism, these extra steps demonstrate a level of craftsmanship and diligence indicative of the entire project.
It’s the philosophy of “How you do anything is how you do everything” expressed in horological form.
The Campanola BU0020-71E is available to buy on our website.
In very good condition overall. No marks of any major significance, other than the caseback. Small hairlines can be seen on the bezel on close inspection. Original bracelet, fitting up to a 7.1 inch wrist. No box or papers.
Seiko “Laurel” LJAK602
I’ve almost caught them all. Tracking down and writing about the various Laurel models has become my personal mission in recent months. Today’s offering, the LJAK602, is one I haven’t featured in the newsletter before, though you’ll no doubt recognise its distinct blend of European and Japanese influences.
By now, I’ve covered these neo-vintage Laurels extensively, so rather than repeat myself, I’ll spare you the history lesson. If you’d like to dive deeper into their origins, please click here.
However, I thought you might appreciate something special - a scanned copy of a vintage Laurel brochure I recently picked up in Japan. While the collection extends beyond what’s shown, the five models above and three below are, in my opinion, some of the best. Notably, the 4S29 pieces with exhibition casebacks are absent from this brochure, but the selection still provides a fascinating glimpse into this era of Laurel watches.
One of the things I love about these old brochures is the insight they offer into details that often get lost over time - retail prices, forgotten references, and design variations. Of the 30 Laurels produced in the 1990s, only about 10 have remained relevant in today’s collecting scene, including the eight featured here - which, interestingly, were the most affordable models in the original catalogue.
The Seiko Laurel LJAK602 is now available to buy on our website.
In great condition overall. No significant blemishes anywhere, although its solid 925 silver so there are signs of patination and scratches on the caseback. Comes with the original double box and leather strap.
Grand Seiko SBGS007
A double dose of horological provenance. When the Quartz Crisis loomed over the watch industry in the 1970s, no brand was safe - not even Grand Seiko. In 1975, production officially ceased, and it would take 13 years for Grand Seiko to return. That comeback arrived in 1988, marked by the release of the 95-series quartz calibre.
Thermocompensated and accurate to ±10 seconds per year, the 95-series was a fitting relaunch. After all, Grand Seiko’s pre-quartz era ended with the production of the VFA, one of the most accurate mechanical movements in the world. What better way to start anew than with one of the most accurate quartz movements ever made?
You don’t need me to tell you its pretty. A champagne-coloured, sunburst dial, with 60 applied indices - and at 34mm, it wears as elegantly as it looks. For me, it’s a perfect daily office companion, especially with its High Accuracy Quartz movement, meaning you won’t need to wind or set it even after a week out of rotation. Strangely though, it has a hidden provenance that couldn’t be further removed from office life.
This particular SBGS007 was awarded to the scorer of the fastest goal in the 1992/1993 Emperor’s Cup - Japan’s equivalent of the FA Cup. Sadly, tracking down the name of that record-breaking footballer from 32 years ago has proven impossible. But for me, quirky provenance is the best kind of provenance - and this one certainly qualifies.
The Grand Seiko SBGS007 is now available to buy on our website.
Great condition overall. No marks of any significance anywhere. On the original bracelet, which can be sized up to up to a 6.9 inch wrist.
Seiko Brightz SDGM001 “Grand Cocktail” (BEMAC Edition)
And all the rest. In a bid to condense the newsletter, I’ve decided to group together watches that I’ve previously covered. From top left to bottom right, please click on the respective watch below to read more about them:
Seiko “Urushi Byakudan-nuri” SPB085
Seiko “Brushed Steel” 3883-7000
All of the above are now available to buy on our website.
The condition of each watch can be found on their respective page.
Don’t forget to follow my Instagram to see all of the watches above in full cinematic glory next week.