From Celestial Spring Drives to Government-overthrowing Tool Watches

Promise not to coup anything if you buy it?

Apr 06, 2025

The Precursor

Japanese watchmaking often reveals unexpected narratives just beneath the surface - and today’s newsletter somehow manages to examine both Credor’s delicate navigation of the 1980s gold crash, and the horological preferences of Nicaraguan rebels.

I didn’t ever think I’d be covering the Iran-Contra Affair in this newsletter, but I’m certainly glad to be here.

Enjoy!

Credor “35th Anniversary” GCLH975 Spring Drive

First launched in 1974, the Credor brand was built around the idea of creating watches that acted as a safe store of value during a period of rapidly rising gold prices. However, when the price of gold collapsed in the early '80s, Credor found itself in a difficult position. Until then, most of Credor’s designs had been conservative and unremarkable, largely relying on the value of the metal that formed their cases, dials, and hands.

Determined to make something worth more than its melt value, Credor stepped into uncharted waters with bold, innovative designs. And thus, the Credor Curva collection was born.

The Curva marked a milestone - not just for Credor, but for Seiko as well. The '60s and '70s saw Seiko adopt a more universal approach to watch design, largely emulating successful European models. But in the '80s, Credor, and by extension Seiko, began to branch out with bolder, more experimental designs.

The unique lug shape is based around the interconnectedness of time and how it affects our three states - a common theme in Zen philosophy.

It’s safe to assume that many reading this newsletter have been drawn in by Seiko’s distinctive charm at some point. Credor, arguably Seiko’s most important brand in terms of global acclaim, wouldn’t be the design pioneer it is today were it not for the success of the unconventional Curva collection.

With that context in mind, it makes perfect sense for Credor to celebrate the 35th anniversary of its reinvention by releasing the GCLH975, a truly remarkable piece that incorporates the iconic Linea Curva lug shape. But enough about the history - let’s dive into the actual watch.

Released on Valentine’s Day in 2020, the GCLH975 was limited to just 120 units. Starting with the dial, it features a heat-blued design meant to resemble a spiral galaxy. And yes, you read that correctly - not blued hands, but a blued dial. According to Credor, creating this dial is practically alchemy, as evenly heat-bluing such a large surface area is a notoriously difficult task. Any significant significant variance in thickness - presumably measured in microns - would result in noticeable inconsistencies in the bluing, creating a patchy finish.

The hands and indices are all Zaratsu polished by hand, which goes without saying for a Credor of this caliber. The Power Reserve Indicator has been hand-carved to evoke the night sky, with the indicator leaving a comet’s tail as it powers up. The entire design is enclosed in a distinctive octagonal case, with the aforementioned signature Linea Curva lugs.

Flipping the watch over reveals more celestial inspiration: the bridges have been hand-etched to make the Spring Drive's glide wheel resemble a shooting star. It's the perfect finishing touch for this celestial masterpiece.

The Credor 7R88 Spring Drive powers the watch - regular readers might recall this movement from previous newsletter, and will know its inclusion makes the GCLH975 thinner than any Grand Seiko spring Drive, at a hair under 10.0mm.

The Credor GCLH975 is now available to buy on our website

In great condition - appears to be unworn. Just serviced by Credor. Full box and papers.

Seiko 1421-0140 “Contra” Field Master

An odd-looking watch with a backstory to match. How much of a history lesson do you want on a Sunday morning? Not much? I'll try to keep this brief.

The Contras were an anti-communist, rebel group in Nicaragua to whom America officially (and later very unofficially) supplied weapons, in order to arm them against the Russian supported Sandinista government. Just Cold War things.

Even with me glossing over the illegal sale of missiles to Iran, Oliver North, and destruction of so many government documents that a White House shredder literally broke, it’s still easy to see how murky the Iran-Contra affair was.

So how did this watch end up being called the Contra?

According to legend, the Contra rebels were fans of the Field Master’s utility and were regularly seen wearing them. Who can blame them? It’s the 1980s equivalent of a smart watch. A lightweight titanium case with a modular design, allowing wearers to easily switch between an analogue clock, digital stopwatch, map meter, and compass - perfect for navigating the Nicaraguan jungle while orchestrating a coup on behalf of a foreign nation.

By the way, this isn’t simply a nickname used by Seiko fans - Seiko themselves now call it the Contra!

My understanding is people would pick and choose the relevant modules in-store, and just pay for the parts they wanted. As a result, it's become almost impossible to find a full set that contains all four modules in working order.

The Seiko 1421-0140 Field Master is available to buy on our website

In battle-worn condition. Perhaps literally? All components work as intended, but there are visible scratches on the crystals and cases. Would you even want this watch looking pristine? Original box with the four module slots.

Custom “EKG” Open Heart Watch

A reminder to make every second count. It took me longer than it probably should have to put together a new batch, but the EKG watches are back in stock.

It’s undeniably satisfying to watch the heart beat. Thanks to the skeletonised NH71 Seiko movement, exhibition caseback, and literal open heart dial design, you can see through the entire watch from the front.

The average human heart beats up to three billions times before eventually giving up, and this custom watch has been designed to make you consider the importance of every beat. To further drive this point home, and represent its fragility, the dial that houses the 18k gold heart is paper-textured.

The EKG is now available to buy on our website

In brand new, unworn condition.

Seiko “Morpho” 3883-7000

Not just a pretty face. Produced in 1974 and priced at ¥235,000, the Seiko 3883 “Morpho” was the most expensive Seiko you could buy. Adjusting solely for inflation, it would have cost over $6,000 today. Even compared to Seiko’s own offerings, the Morpho was vastly expensive - a Grand Seiko VFA, the most advanced mechanical watch Seiko had ever produced, cost half a Morpho, while the beloved 6138 Kakume vertical clutch Chronograph only cost a tenth of one!

As much as I’d like to continue waxing lyrical about one of my favourite watches of all time, I recently covered it in full, so please click here to read it if you missed it the first time.

The Seiko 3883-7000 Morpho is available to buy on our website

In great condition overall. Unpolished. There hairline scratches on the bezel and case, but the mix of brushed and polished surfaces, with razor sharp edges, are all present. The crystal, dial, hands and indices are in great condition. On the original and oddly rare bracelet.

Seiko “Big Date” SAGV007 Kinetic

I love big Big Dates and I cannot lie. Produced for a brief period in 2008 and exclusively sold in Japan, this has become the grail Big Date for most Seiko collectors. A quintessentially accidental “limited edition” from Seiko, as its sudden discontinuation has made them very hard to find.

Powered by the proprietary 7D46 hybrid "Kinetic" movement, it shares its origins with the development of Seiko’s Spring Drive technology. For a detailed dive into this movement, please click here.

The watch boasts incredible wrist presence without being overbearing. A Big Date Triple Perpetual Calendar housed in a solid titanium, cushion-shaped case with striking angular lines, it’s a design that feels distinctly un-Seiko by today’s standards. It’s a shame, as I’m certain this kind of piece would find a strong following in both the West and East.

The Seiko Laurel LJAR601 is available to buy on our website

In great condition overall. Various swirls and small marks you’d expect to find on a titanium case. Just serviced by Seiko, with a new capacitor installed. On the original curved leather strap in unworn condition.