Grand Seiko vs Seiko vs Campanola vs …Totoro?

You know where the smart money is

Mar 23, 2025

The Precursor

A perfectly balanced, royal rumble of watchmakers today. For reasons that will become clear, I’ll be very sad to say goodbye to the pair of watches at the bottom of the newsletter, but they should bring the right buyer a lot of joy.

On a happier note, I’ve got some hugely exciting Credors coming up, so keep an eye out for them in April’s newsletters.

Grand Seiko “Crosshatched” SBGA225

Another first-generation Grand Seiko with an unusual dial? I can’t help it. There’s something captivating about these intrepid watches that cemented Grand Seiko’s place in the watchmaking pantheon.

Like the Tapestry Dial Grand Seiko from two weeks ago, this model features design elements rarely seen in modern Grand Seiko watches - canaries down the proverbial mineshaft of watch design.

While the overall aesthetic feels markedly different from today’s equivalents, the foundations are unmistakable. The design of the Power Reserve Indicator, for instance, remains a staple seen on most Grand Seiko dials, and the interplay of Zaratsu-polished edges against large brushed surfaces is as relevant now as ever. The hands, however, do not belong to the modern era.

Razor-sharp, with a thin black stripe running through the centre, they bear a striking resemblance to those of the vintage 4520-8000 - one of Seiko’s first true 36,000 bph Hi-Beats. Perhaps this design choice was a quiet nod of gratitude to the earliest Grand Seikos, who allowed their modern counterparts to stand on their shoulders.

But the dial is truly singular. It doesn’t have an obvious predecessor that I’m aware of. Its texture appears as a three-dimensional, inverted diamond pattern, yet it’s not textured in the way one might expect.

Look closely at the bottom-left image in the grid, and you’ll see that the diamond pattern is actually an optical illusion created by clever crosshatching. At the right angle, the pattern dissolves into a series of squares - most noticeably in the lower half of the image - before seamlessly transitioning into diamonds as your eyes move upwards. Pinpointing exactly where the shift occurs hurts my brain a bit.

Yet the dial isn’t the only uniquely shaped aspect of this watch.

Just look at those crown guards. Calling them guards feels like a disservice - crown Secret Service perhaps? Not only would they happily take a bullet for the watch, but they look like they’d survive it too. They’re not absurdly large - proportionally, they’re fairly modest - but their angular form and ruggedly brushed sides give them an innate aggression that commands attention. As much as I love the dial, it’s the crown guards that first caught my eye on the SBGA225.

We’re unlikely to see a return to this kind of design, making this an enticing option for those seeking an affordable Spring Drive with a distinctive look.

The Grand Seiko SBGA225 is now available to buy on our website.

In great condition overall. No marks of any noticeable significance. Box and papers.

Seiko “Mint Chocolate” SARW019

A rarely seen colourway paired with a modern-classic Seiko dial configuration. There’s little that needs to be said about the 6R21 automatic movement, other than that it offers the best entry point for anyone considering a watch with a Power Reserve Indicator.

It’s a woefully underappreciated complication, yet one that has brought me immense joy over the years - whether it’s the immediate satisfaction of manually winding a watch and seeing the indicator respond, or witnessing the impact that getting up from my desk and going for a brisk walk has on one. For me, it’s the ultimate don’t knock it until you’ve tried it feature.

The brown and green colourway is equal parts unusual and intriguing. I’m sure you’ll agree it thoroughly deserves its “Mint Chocolate” nickname.

The Seiko “Mint Chocolate” SARW019 is available to buy on our website.

In great condition. The only overly noticeable marks can be see on the caseback, but they’re mild. Full box and papers.

Campanola Golden CTU57-0683 Limited Edition

Campanolas already pack a visual punch, but this one is on another level. Strictly speaking, I haven’t featured this exact watch before, though I have covered the complication. I strongly recommend reading the original article if you previously missed it, as this triple perpetual calendar with date finding functionality is far from common.

It’s definitely not suitable for those looking to avoid social interaction. I guarantee you’ll get questions the moment it catches someone’s eye - and how could they not notice it? This design won’t be for everyone, but for the right person, it’s the perfect watch.

Limited to just 100 pieces and released in 2001, it was among the first Campanolas to feature the now-iconic spiral galaxy year wheel. And despite being an early release, it already showcases the delightful mix of dial-finishing techniques that would become a hallmark of later models.

The Campanola Golden CTU57-0683 is available to buy on our website.

In great condition. The only overly noticeable marks can be see on the caseback, but they’re mild. Full box and papers.

Seiko Alba “Totoro Anniversary” ACAM003 & ACAM009

Two collaborations marking two milestones. Over the past three decades, Seiko and Studio Ghibli have joined forces on dozens of watches, but few are as thoughtfully designed as these My Neighbor Totoro editions. The watch on the left (ACAM003), produced in 1998, commemorates the film’s 10th anniversary, while the one on the right (ACAM009), released in 2000, celebrates the turn of the millennium. They were limited to 1,998 and 2,000 pieces, respectively.

I must admit, I’m no Studio Ghibli aficionado, but the handful of films I’ve watched with my daughter have been magical - every one she’s seen has quickly found a place in her Top 10. My Neighbor Totoro reigns supreme, with my daughter heartbreakingly asking, “Daddy, why do my tears feel happy?” as the credits rolled on her first viewing.

I won’t bore you with the details about Ghibli or the film itself, as you must be familiar with both if you’re still reading this. Totoro is not only beloved by audiences both young and old, but Miyazaki, the studio’s founder, was so proud of his creation that Totoro ended up becoming the production logo for Studio Ghibli. So it’s only fitting for the kind-hearted wood spirit to be front and centre on both dials.

Both watches feature subtle nods to the film, including a soot sprite on the crown, decorated casebacks showcasing the Catbus and Totoro himself, and Totoro’s paw print stamped into the bezel. Watch boxes are rarely worth mentioning, but these are an exception - Japanese-made wooden boxes with green felt inlays, Totoro-stamped papers, and pin badges make these irresistible collector’s pieces.

Anyone who follows my Instagram will know I originally bought these for my daughter. Unfortunately, as she’s still learning to tell the time, she struggles with the Roman numerals and mixed indices - not quite the friendly clock setup she’s been learning about in School!

Don’t feel too bad, though - I found her a suitable replacement, pictured above, that she absolutely loves. The good news? Both watches are now up for sale, and I’m sure they’ll each find a loving home.

The ACAM003 (Automatic Mechanical) is available to buy one our website.

The ACAM009 (Manual Wind Mechanical) is available to buy one our website.

Both are in great condition and come with their full box and papers.