Will Seiko's Affordability Ever End?
Looking at some of those new Alpinist prices, maybe it already has...
The Precursor
As I ramp up towards the end of the year, I plan to take some time off, so I’ve opted for a semi-watch heavy week this week, and a very watch-heavy week next week. That should conclude business for 2024!
Seiko SARC011 Enamel Dial in Cushion Case
Seiko is undoubtedly the king of affordably priced enamel dials. It’s not exactly a fair fight, as no other major brands are even attempting to compete with Seiko at this price point. If you want this level of perfection on your vitreous enamel dial, be prepared to pay many times the price for a Swiss equivalent.
Japan has been at the forefront of enamel craftsmanship since the 1880s, and it’s a pleasure to see Seiko continuing this proud tradition. In fact, before Europe mastered advanced cloisonné techniques, they imported intricate enamel pieces from Japan by the boatload. If Seiko re-released the SARC011, I’m sure the same thing would happen!
Released in 2006 as part of Seiko’s SARC collection, the SARC011 features a beautifully even, jet-black enamel dial with sunken subdials, that has been paired with elegant Seiko Laurel-style hands and numerals, set in a brushed-finish cushion case. It’s powered by a 28,800bph movement with circular day & date and power reserve complications.
The harmonious combination of these elements makes the SARC011 a standout piece from the collection.
The SARC011 is now available to buy on our website.
In great condition. Serviced by Seiko Japan. No visible markings of any significance, excluding the caseback. No box or papers.
Campanola “Burning Incense” AG6251-06W Perpetual Calendar
Watch companies often get carried away when naming colourful dials, but Burning Incense feels spot on. Allow me to make two bold claims. Firstly, this is my favourite ever Campanola colourway - the reds, browns and golds, mixed with a crisp white, are delightfully autumnal and not something I’ve seen on many watches. Secondly, if you dislike this colourway, your opinion is factually wrong. In principal, I agree opinions can’t be “wrong”, and yet here we are.
In previous newsletters, I’ve delved into the artistry of Campanola’s layered designs, including this very Perpetual Calendar model with its unique spiralling universe year wheel. If you missed it, you can read the full description by clicking here - it’s truly a fascinating watch.
The Campanola AG6251-06W “Burning Incense” was released in 2020 as a limited edition of 200 numbered pieces. It features a technically sophisticated movement paired with the ancient Japanese art of urushi hand-lacquering. The sepia tones at the base of the dial are created by blending tinted urushi with flecks of gold, adding a touch of timeless craftsmanship to this exquisite design.
The Burning Incense is now available to buy on our website.
Near perfect condition. No visible markings of any significance. No box or papers.
Seiko Credor GCLL999 Spring Drive “Node” Moonphase
Midnight blue and silver is a colour combination made in heaven. It’s practically a cheat code for creating a sleek, distinguished piece. And what does a face as stunning as this one deserve? Only the smoothest second hand sweep imaginable, of course. Thankfully, Credor agrees, equipping the GCLL999 Moonphase with the exceptional 5R77 Spring Drive movement.
I recently explored the Credor Node collection in detail - if you missed it, click here for the full breakdown. I look forward to showcasing some other interesting Nodes over the coming weeks.
One common complaint among collectors is the inclusion of date windows on most Grand Seiko Spring Drives. While I’m not opposed to date windows, I understand the complaint - Spring Drive watches exude elegance, and date windows can feel jarringly intrusive. Luckily, Credor’s Spring Drive offerings tend to forgo date windows, preserving their dressy heritage.
The Node Big Dates are the obvious exception - but those aren’t watches with date windows; they’re date windows with a watch built around them.
The GCLL999 strikes a masterful balance. Its Moonphase and Power Reserve indicators are tastefully understated, ensuring the twinkling, zaratsu-polished indices, hands, and case remain the stars of the show.
The GCLL999 is available to buy on our website.
In great condition. No visible markings of any significance. Serviced in November 2024. Full box and papers.
Credor 2F70-5130 Titanium & Gold
This watch ticks every vintage Credor box. Before the Node collection, Credor was a very different brand. The checklist was simple:
Ultra-slim? ✓
Integrated bracelet? ✓
Simple but accurate quartz? ✓
Titanium? Gold? Sapphire? All of the above? ✓✓✓✓
Founded in 1974, and deriving its name from "Crête d'Or" (French for “pinnacle of gold”), Credor built its reputation crafting dress watches from precious metals and stones. However, I’ve previously criticised vintage Credor for an overreliance on luxury materials at the expense of thoughtful design - and I stand by that critique.
Many vintage Credor pieces feel more like showcases for precious elements than cohesive watch designs. That said, there are exceptions, and the enduring appeal of the 2F70-5130 is proof of what Credor can achieve when form and function align.
Released in the early 1990s and sold exclusively in Japan, the 2F70-5130 boasts a titanium case and bracelet paired with 18k gold dial accents and hands, visible through a sapphire crystal. Being quartz, titanium and only 4.6mm thick, it’s incredibly lightweight and easy to wear.
The Credor 2F70-5130 is now available to buy on our website.
Great condition. Minor signs of wear on the bracelet. Full box and papers.
Campanola 6704-T007881 Perpetual Calendar
Aren’t these usually housed in a tonneau case? Rumour has it that once Campanola fulfils their yearly quota of strikingly eccentric designs, they slip in a few traditional options. “Traditional” is used pretty loosely here - this watch still features the signature spiral universe triple perpetual calendar, and the eight hands that accompany it, but it trades the elaborate urushi dial for a refined steel-on-steel aesthetic that’s endlessly captivating.
The dial showcases at least six distinct metalworking techniques:
Brushing
Sunburst
Engraving
Polishing
Relief Striping
Azurage
This 6704-T007881 Campanola comes on the original stainless steel bracelet, rather than the traditional Campanolas leather strap. I suppose the steel-on-steel look demanded one more “on steel”? I’m here for it.
Released in 2013, the 41.5mm case size strikes a balance between boldness and wearability. I find it comfortable on my 6.5-inch wrist. While it’s not a small watch, the dial’s intricate details demand a canvas large enough to do them justice.
The Campanola 6704-T007881 is now available to buy on our website.
In very good condition overall. A clean dial and crystal, with minor signs of wear on the case. Comes with box and papers.
Seiko Ladies 17-340
The bonus addition of a watch I know little about. The morpho-like nature of this watch immediately caught my attention. Its dial shifts from vivid blue to turquoise, and it features what I can only describe as the most aggressive colour-tinted undercoating I’ve ever encountered on a crystal. The image above is not colour-enhanced - when the light catches it just right, the crystal burns with an intense orange hue.
Its crystal is faceted to resemble the top edge of a brilliant-cut diamond, and the case and bracelet are plated in white gold. The cross-hatched adorning the case and bracelet pattern is astonishingly irregular, showing it was done by hand rather than machine.
The bracelet is reminiscent of a reticulated snake skeleton, with each link flowing seamlessly into the next. Even the oversized crown is topped with a large, clear stone, adding yet another layer of luxury.
Released 50 years ago, the only trace of this watch I can find online is in the 1975 Seiko Catalogue. The watch is simply described as having a “brilliant cut crystal” with “fancy undercoating”. A bit scant, but not inaccurate! Interestingly, it cost ¥35,000 at the time which made it more expensive than every 6138 Chronograph released that year!
The 17-340A is now available to buy on our website.
In very good condition. The edges of the crystal are sharp, and the white gold plating show no signs of wear.
Don’t forget to follow my Instagram to see all of the watches above in full cinematic glory later this week.